IN SEARCH OF WALES
By H.V. Morton
Published by Methuen & Co, Ltd, original publication
c1932
ISBN # 0413407403
{Click
here to buy this book 2000 reprint...originals can
be found on eBay
regularly}
I'll first note that the book I read was the 1932 publication.
This series was reprinted between 2000-2001, probably
in order for the copyright to remain
intact. Anyone wishing to read this book
would
do well by obtaining one of the original copies, or earlier
printings, as they include Morton's original photographs, which
the reprint in 2000 omitted.
Now, having said that, I'll get into the meat
of this review.
In Search of Wales is just one of the books
that noted travel journalist of his time wrote. I've read
In Search of Ireland and loved it. In preparation for a trip
to Wales recently, I picked up this book to get a sense for
a country I had yet to visit. I wasn't disappointed.
Morton's descriptions of Wales is almost like
being there, which says a lot since this book was printed
72 years ago! The book is certainly no substitute for making
a trip to Wales, but for those that can't, it's a wonderful
experience.
On opening the cover, readers will see a map
of Wales, which has been premarked on publication with Morton's
route around the coast from Chirck on the marches in the north
to Cardiff in the south. Each chapter begins with a very brief
notation of what the author saw and experienced within the
chapter. And the book is liberally sprinkled with photographs
so that readers can see Wales as the author saw it in 1932.
What I find remarkable is that Wales still
maintains much of the scenic beauty today as in Morton's day.
It's actually quite possible to retrace his steps around the
coast and still see those things that he found remarkable
on his journey. While my stay in the country was centered
around Hay-on-Wye, the bookstore capital of the world, I did
see some of the areas that Morton did.
One of those areas was Llangollen and the
aqueducts nearby. Of Llangollen, Morton writes, "To any
with an eye for landscape its charm is in compression. Here
is a little masterpiece in mountains; an exercise in the blending
of hill against hill, woodland against moorland. The Vale
of Llangollen looks as though Nature had made a scale model
for a section of the milder Scottish Highlands, and, liking
it very well, had also gained a few ideas for Switzerland
and the German Rhine. It's a country that is neat and well-groomed.
Every meadow, it seems, has its valet and every tree its lady's
maid." I couldn't agree more! We drove through
the vale at a time when the colors were just beginning to
change and it was truly magnificent.
Another area we (Morton and ourselves) visited was Cardigan
on the Pembrokeshire coast. I actually hadn't finished the
book before we left for our trip, nor while on it, but when
I finally did I was amazed to find that our first impressions
of this town were quite similar. Upon entering Cardigan, Morton
said the town was "one street of shops and a general
air of having retired from business." When we arrived
in town, 72 years later, it was much the same. Rain was falling
in sheets, it was growing dark and the whole town had an air
of complacency, and we had a difficult time finding accommodation.
This could be an example of first impressions not always being
the best ones. Our B&B was wonderful and the town, in
the light of a sunny day, turned out to be a wonderful old
market town with a great medieval history. We didn't get down
to the sea front but the coastline here is part of a marine
sanctuary.
Incredibly, Morton's books are not just he experiences of
a travel writer. They're also history texts. In the first
chapter I was drawn in by the story of Fulke Fitzwarren, a
character I'd read about in one of Elizabeth
Chadwick's stories a couple years ago, which was based
on real events and people. I'd only heard cursory stories
about this man, but Morton's description of him and the life
that surrounded in him were fascinating and made for further
research. As well, I learned about the romantic tryst of Katherine
de Valois and Owen Tudor...the parents of Henry VI! Owen Tudor
came from humble stock, his father having been a beer maker.
Owen rose to the position of Clerk of the Wardrobe for the
windowed Queen Katherine. They grew close and secretly married,
Katherine bearing three sons, one of which would become Henry
VI. The story is quite complicated but very romantic. And
it's stories like these that you don't read in travel journals
today.
I think what else strikes me as fascinating about Morton's
books is his style of writing, what would be called his "voice"
today. It's poetic, romantic and enticing.
I could go on and on about this book, but I think readers
should pick up a copy of their own. It's like a holiday for
the mind rather than the body.